Their assault on the mountain started well, but then disaster struck. They did manage the first ascent of neighboring Mönch instead. Quand ce fait est établi, une certaine frivolité des différents récits du début fait place à la plus grande gravité. Although the attempt was unsuccessful, they were nonetheless the first climbers who returned alive from a serious attempt on the face. Brilliant yet sad. I found the link to this documentary from a review of NorthFace, a German film. His recovery left him to confront the question: why, after coming so close to death, did he feel compelled to continue climbing? È infatti il libro che riceve in regalo da suo padre all’età di 14 anni, intitolato Parete Nord , che fa nascere in lui il desiderio di diventare un’alpinista. He tried the North Face repeatedly, defeated by storm. Colin Gourlay enabled the ascent of other team members, including Al Taylor who has multiple sclerosis, and the young autistic climber Jamie Owen from North Wales. Kurz explained the fate of his companions: one had fallen down the face, another was frozen above him, and the third had fractured his skull in falling and was hanging dead on the rope. On the following day, because of the greater difficulties, they gained little height. 1864 (Jul 27): Fourth ascent, and first ascent by a woman, 1871: First ascent by the southwest ridge, 14 July (Christian Almer, Christian Bohren, and Ulrich Almer guiding, 1924: First ski ascent and descent via the Eiger glacier by Englishman, 1932: First ascent of the northeast face ("Lauper route") by Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Alexander Graven and, 1970: First ski descent over the west flank, by, 1988: Original Route (ED2), north face, Eiger (3970m), Alps, Switzerland, first American solo (nine and a half hours) by. So close, what a tragedy. Wie es ihnen am Berg ergeht und was die beiden motiviert, solch eine gefährliche Route zu klettern, erfährt der Leser auf 338 spannenden und zugleich nachdenklich stimmenden Seiten. They reached the summit at about noon, planted a flag, stayed for some 10 minutes and descended in about four hours. The contrast between the comfort and civilization of the railway station and the agonies of the young men slowly dying a short yet uncrossable distance away led to intensive coverage by the international media. Hinterstoisser fell 37 metres (121 ft) but was not injured. It is one of the three great north faces of the Alps, along with the north faces of the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses (known as 'the Trilogy') and also one of the biggest sheer face in Europe, between 1,600 m and 1,800 m (over a mile) high. Then he began to lose consciousness. Consequently, all sides of the Eiger feed finally the same river, namely the Lütschine. The name has been linked to the Latin term acer, meaning "sharp" or "pointed". Comment tourner la page d'une vie vouée à l'engagement extrême ? The most notable feature of the Eiger is its nearly 1,800-metre-high (5,900 ft) north face of rock and ice, named Eiger-Nordwand, Eigerwand or just Nordwand, which is the biggest north face in the Alps. Joe Simpson interview: 'I'm not an easy person to be with' As his new book hits the shelves, Joe Simpson, author of 'Touching the Void’, talks … Kurz was unable to descend further and, completely exhausted, died slowly. The north face overlooks the gently raising Alpine meadow between Grindelwald (943 m (3,094 ft)) and Kleine Scheidegg (2,061 m (6,762 ft)), a mountain railways junction and a pass, which can be reached from both sides, Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen/Wengen – by foot or train. The two stations within the Eiger are Eigerwand (behind the north face) and Eismeer (behind the south face), at around 3,000 metres. If you find this as fascinating as I did, watch "Touching the Void". On the third day they made hardly any vertical ground. Joe is a great narrator and it shows in this movie. The first mention of Eiger, appearing as "mons Egere", was found in a property sale document of 1252, but there is no clear indication of how exactly the peak gained its name. August 1960 in Kuala Lumpur) ist ein britischer Bergsteiger, Autor und Vortragsredner. You definitely don’t start out doing this kind of stuff, you start top-roping. Charles barrigton is the first person to climb eiger in 11 august Joe Simpson's writing is compelling, lucid and interesting. « Eiger, la dernière course » de Joe Simpson C’est Gaston Rébuffat, le premier à avoir gravi les six grandes faces nord des Alpes (l’Eiger, les Grandes Jorasses, le Cervin, le Petit Dru, la Cima Grande, le Piz Badile), qui l’a écrit : l’Eiger est la plus difficile d’entre elles. A bagman's view of climbing the Eigerwand, Obituary of Anderl Heckmair, The Independent, Feb. 3, 2005,, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Joe Simpson chute de plusieurs dizaines de mètres et glisse dans une crevasse. The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington, who climbed the west flank on August 11, 1858. There are several ways to be notified about new content on TDF. After a mountain climber's severe injuries and near-death accident, he's told he'll never climb again. ^ Simpson, Joe (22 October 2007). I hate to compare, but the film made on this event, North Face, is mostly dishonest and full of factual errors. I'll stick to skiing. Ne pas se frotter à l'Eiger est pour lui impensable, tout simplement. Ce combat pour la survie dure quatre jours. Trop d'amis disparus, l'envie peu à peu sapée par le doute, la peur qui prend le pas sur le plaisir : Joe Simpson décide d'abandonner le grand alpinisme. [7] It forms a renowned mountain range of the Bernese Alps together with its two companions: the Jungfrau (4,158 m (13,642 ft)) about 5.6 kilometres (3.5 mi) southwest of it and the Mönch (4,107 m (13,474 ft)) about in the middle of them. His first reaction, he recalls, was straightforward horror. Toni Kurz was still alive but almost helpless, with one hand and one arm completely frozen. Ce fut sa «dernière course». Now he's coming out of retirement to recreate a historic attempt on the Eiger's North Face. Joe Simpson (nascido em 1960) é um alpinista inglês e autor de diversos livros. The members successfully reached the summit at four o'clock in the afternoon. The owner of the hotel then fired a cannon to celebrate the first ascent. “I would love to have climbed the ’38 route. eiger livres sa derniere course pointes de course course joe derniere joe derniere course joe pointes simpson Achat Eiger, La Dernière Course à prix bas sur Rakuten. The two groups, led by the experienced Heckmair, decided to join their forces and roped together as a single group of four. Re: I do not believe Joe Simpson by Holsti97 » Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:26 pm The DVD Touching the Void has footage of the climbers returning to the scene years later. They failed to reach him but came within shouting distance and learned what had happened. When the weather improved they made a preliminary exploration of the lowest part of the face. And while I waited for an opportunity to see it, I read every book on the Eiger, including The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer , which I rank among the best books on mountaineering ever written. Joe Simpson (* 13. The book deals mostly with the 1938 route on the North face of the Eiger. Harrer used this name for the title of his book about his successful climb, Die Weisse Spinne (translated into English as The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger). The film as griping but nowhere near as inspiring as this factual story. The previous day, the party approached the ridge from the Eismeer railway station of the Jungfrau Railway and bivouacked for the night. Porges, however, successfully made the second ascend of the Eiger in July 1861 with the guides Christian Michel, Hans and Peter Baumann. The Kleine Scheidegg (literally, the small parting corner) connects the Männlichen-Tschuggen range with the western ridge of the Eiger. That the last (in this book at least) is the north face of the Eiger suggests a certain lack of commitment to the notion of the quiet life. [12], In the morning the three guides came back, traversing the face from a hole near the Eigerwand station and risking their lives under incessant avalanches. As in his previous writing he is refreshingly honest in his story telling of both facts and feelings. They did not resume the climb until the following day, when, during a break, the party was seen descending, but the climbers could be seen only intermittently from the ground. [7], Politically, the Eiger (and its summit) belongs to the Bernese municipalities of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen. Then the fog came down again and hid the climbers. While descending, Kurz could not get the knot to pass through his carabiner. [7] Therefore, all the water running down the Eiger converges at the northern foot of the Männlichen (2,342 m (7,684 ft)) in Zweilütschinen (654 m (2,146 ft)), about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) northwest of the summit, where the Lütschine begins its northern course to Lake Brienz and the Aare (564 m (1,850 ft)). "North Face" is a German dramatised documentary of an incident on the North face of the Eiger in 1936. Nach seiner Genesung, zu der insgesamt sechs Operationen notwendig waren, fing Simpson wieder mit dem Bergsteigen an. Now he is going back to the mountain that first him inspired to climb. [7] The east face is covered by the glacier called Ischmeer, (Bernese German for Ice Sea), which forms one upper part of the fast-retreating Lower Grindelwald Glacier. Eiger, la dernière course, Joe Simpson, Glénat. [12], Mountain in the Bernese Alps, Switzerland, "Nordwand" redirects here. They finally reached Eigergletscher railway station at about 3:00 a.m. the next day. A few days later the weather finally cleared, revealing a completely white north face. Hier erzählt Joe Simpson generell von seiner Leidenschaft für die Berge und wie es dazu kam daß die Tour auf den Eiger überhaupt stattfand. It's also available on this website. I used to hate heights too, until I started climbing. Two days later, there was a short moment when the clouds cleared and the mountain was visible for a while. He tried the North Face repeatedly, defeated by storm. Toni Kurz was a brilliant young mountaineer, who along with three other climbers tried to climb the mountain in 1936, which was then the last great unconquered peak in the Alps. The Eiger Glacier flows on the southwestern side of the Eiger, from the crest connecting it to the Mönch down to 2,400 m (7,900 ft), south of Eigergletscher railway station, and feeds the Weisse Lütschine through the Trümmelbach. "North Face" is a German dramatised documentary of an incident on the North face of the Eiger in 1936. His plight uncannily mirrored that of Kurz - except, against all the odds, Simpson lived whilst his hero had perished.